Capers

Capers are the unopened flower buds of a thorny Mediterranean shrub (the caper bush), which are gathered and preserved — pickled in vinegar or brine, or salted. Fresh buds are inedible because of their bitterness, and it is precisely the process of salting or pickling that reveals their inimitable flavour.

Finished capers have a bright, piquant, salty-sour flavour with a pleasant sharpness and characteristic floral-mustardy notes, somewhat reminiscent of olives. They are an important component of Mediterranean cuisine, above all Italian, Greek, Cypriot, and southern French. Capers are added to fish and meat dishes, sauces (the classic being tartare sauce, remoulade, piccata), pastas (such as “puttanesca”), pizza, and salads (Greek), and they go wonderfully with smoked salmon, veal (Italian vitello tonnato), and cheese. Their bright sourness and saltiness refresh a dish and add depth. Small capers are considered more delicate and prized. Before use, salted capers are sometimes rinsed to remove excess salt. There are also larger caper berries (the fruit of the same bush). This small but exceptionally tasty seasoning is an indispensable accent of Mediterranean cuisine, giving dishes a piquant, bright zing.