Nataliia Fermentovana: 'Fermentation is a Ukrainian tradition, not a new trend'
The curator of Kyiv's 'Fermentation Laboratory' explains how fermentation — an ancient Ukrainian tradition — is returning to modern gastronomy.
'Fermentation is not a new trend from New York,' Nataliia Fermentovana, curator of the Fermentation Laboratory at the Kanapa restaurant, starts the conversation. 'It is a Ukrainian tradition that has existed for centuries. Sauerkraut, soaked apples, brynza cheese, kefir — all these are forms of fermentation. We have simply forgotten their name.' Nataliia came to gastronomy from an academic context — she has a degree in microbiology from Kyiv University and three years of research at the Institute of Microbiology of NASU.
The laboratory works as a combination of research centre and production unit. Fermented products are made here for Kyiv restaurants: kimchi from local cabbage, Hawaiian poke with fermented tuna, kvass and morses from home berries. A separate programme is public seminars for Kyiv guests (once a month, 30 participants) where Nataliia explains how to begin fermentation at home. 'In five years fermentation will be a basic skill in every Ukrainian household,' the curator is confident.
